The production of a pair of shoes is carried out in several stages:

  • the manufacture of the shoe upper,
  • assembly (putting together the upper and the sole)
  • finishing.
     

Cutting out the different pieces, preparing them from stitching, then stitching create the shoe upper.
To assemble the shoe, the shoe upper is placed on a former (representing the foot), then the parts are assembled following a specific manufacturing process.

There are several different manufacturing processes. These days the most frequently used way of manufacturing shoes is welding them. The process uses different glues to join together the upper and the sole. The gluing process requires a great deal of preparation and rigour, as any deviation can compromise the shoe's sturdiness.

The main other processes are:

  • Mocassin stitch
  • Blake stitch
  • Goodyear stitch
  • Norwegian stitch
  • Sandal stitch
  • San Crispino stitch
  • California stitch
  • Moulded
  • Vulcanised
  • Back stitch

 

You will find below an illustration describing each of these techniques.

 

Mocassin stitch

 

Le cousu Mocassin  

 

Blake stitch

Le cousu Blake

 

Goodyear stitch

Le cousu Goodyear ou trépointe

 

Norwegian stitch

Le Cousu Norvégien

 

 

Sandal stitch

Le cousu Sandalette

 

 

San Crispino stitch

Le cousu San Crispino

 

 

California stitch

Le cousu California

 

 

Moulded

L\'injecté

 

Vulcanised

Le Vulcanisé

 

 

 

Back stitch

Le cousu retourné

 

 

The illustrations above are taken from the book La Chaussure sous toutes ses Coutures  (The Shoe and all its Stitches) published by CTC in May 2008.